黑色时装设计师反思种族清算
3黑色时装设计师反思2020年种族清算
![Black Fashion Designers Reflect on Racial Reckoning 黑色时装设计师反思种族清算](https://media1.popsugar-assets.com/files/thumbor/mazq805vqvkKNsxKs4-x77oof1A/fit-in/1024x1024/filters:format_auto-!!-:strip_icc-!!-/2023/02/24/884/n/1922564/3adb823b63f91a548e2881.67087539_/i/black-fashion-designers-racial-reckoning.jpg)
后,乔治·弗洛伊德的谋杀种族估算,2020年5月和随后的几个公司发布声明声援黑人社区并宣布他们对战斗的承诺系统性的种族主义。这种物化的涌入黑人商业孵化器项目和资助,企业捐赠反种族主义组织,综述黑人品牌,文章呼吁读者投资于黑色的企业。但三年后,该行业似乎回归。作为另一个黑人历史月关闭,我们伸出四个黑色时尚创始人讨论反种族主义在时尚界工作的状态。
二千零二十年的一波又一波的运动在时尚行业。以确保它是超过一个趋势,而不是持久的改变的开始,几个组织制定品牌的任务。极光詹姆斯的百分之十五的承诺公开呼吁企业把至少15%的货架空间黑人的产品。哈莱姆的时尚行,黑色的时装协会和每一个时尚的女孩旨在为黑人提供资源创意设计和媒体行业,和零售角和黑人拥有的一切为黑人品牌承诺增加可见性。
企业家的关注,改变了原有的结果。2020年“算总账的种族实际上是一个祝福,“时装设计师Theresa Ebagua告诉POPSUGAR。“反应是惊人的——从消费水平和零售商联系了我们。”The increased awareness around her luxury footwear label切尔西的巴黎,爱Zendaya Lupita Nyong传闻,使她成功地从批发转型日益直接面向消费者的电子商务模式。
只有1%的1500亿美元的风险资本投资者分布在2020年黑色的创始人。
然而,尽管这种明显进步,黑色创始人继续处于劣势,解释了雷内·麦克唐纳,英国女装品牌的创始人兼创意总监Lisou。“黑人女性是最支持投资时,”她告诉POPSUGAR。“我们甚至不太可能被邀请加入房间。”Per埃森哲咨询公司报告,只有1%的1500亿美元的风险资本投资者分布在2020年黑色的创始人。这个数字是更小的黑人女性为0.34%一项研究表明,由Crunchbase实际上。尽管风险投资总体增加了7%,从2019年到2020年以及黑人企业家的快速增长,融资缺口为黑人创始人仍然存在。
“我希望爆炸那个门敞开,对于那些将跟从我,”麦克唐纳继续说。“我们都有一些为我们这个时代的文化历史和这个机会不仅应该扩展到某一种族或社会经济人口。”
未来,我们向2020种族清算黑色时装设计师如何影响他们的业务,如果支持增加或减弱。滚动采访,编辑为清晰。
切尔西的创始人特里萨Ebagua巴黎
![Theresa Ebagua, Founder of Chelsea Paris 切尔西的创始人特里萨Ebagua巴黎](https://media1.popsugar-assets.com/files/thumbor/ERWd_8PH3ol6ZJQ270iZoFvW3dU/fit-in/1024x1024/filters:format_auto-!!-:strip_icc-!!-/2022/07/06/775/n/1922564/074a6232a89df205_Theresa_Ebagua/i/Theresa-Ebagua-Founder-Chelsea-Paris.png)
![Chelsea Paris Gigi Boots in Black ($495)
PS: How do you feel about the current coverage of Black founders in the media? What can journalists and media companies do to improve it?
TE: There's progress, but there's still a lot of work to be done. Yes, with the 2020 racial reckoning, now people are trying to include more Black designers. But I think that we as Black creatives need to hold the retailers accountable. We need to demand more. We want all the progress that was made in 2020 not to be lost. We have to keep demanding inclusivity. We have to keep demanding diversity because my goal and my hope is that one day it won't just be, 切尔西巴黎吉吉靴黑色(495美元)PS:你如何看待当前的媒体覆盖黑色的创始人?记者和媒体公司能做些什么来改善它吗?TE:有进步,但仍有很多工作要做。是的,与2020年种族推算,现在人们正试图包括更多黑人设计师。但我认为,我们作为黑人创意者需要零售商负责。我们需要更多的需求。我们希望所有的进步是在2020年不会丢失。我们必须保持要求包容性。我们必须保持要求的多样性,因为我的目标,我希望它不会只是一天,“你是一个黑人设计师。这就是你得到认可,因为你有才华。” PS: What does a world that truly practices](https://media1.popsugar-assets.com/files/thumbor/jqe1giMkNsObQld_e3GDDRsfZ5A/fit-in/1024x1024/filters:format_auto-!!-:strip_icc-!!-/2023/02/24/886/n/1922564/638e0b2ad8459011_chelsea-paris/i/Chelsea-Paris-Gigi-Boots-in-Black-495PS-How-do-you-feel-about.webp)
创始人Oye Buraimo YAURA时尚
![Oye Buraimo, Founder of YAURA Fashion 创始人Oye Buraimo YAURA时尚](https://media1.popsugar-assets.com/files/thumbor/xH9uv1FOM7zc0PH6MC0MZjY_51o/fit-in/1024x1024/filters:format_auto-!!-:strip_icc-!!-/2023/02/28/004/n/1922564/cc3d586dadf65bcd_UR4A3332/i/Oye-Buraimo-Founder-YAURA-Fashion.jpg)
![Yaura Fashion Lolu Gown in Red (£180)
PS: How do you feel about the current coverage of Black founders in the media? What can journalists and media companies do to improve it?
OB: It was initially bittersweet for me because while I was very pleased and inspired by it, it was also a painful reminder of how much we've been sidelined for years. However, I choose to focus on the positives and hope that the media keeps highlighting the diverse range of amazing Black-owned brands both in public spaces and behind the scenes as that's where it truly counts.
PS: What does a world that truly practices Yaura时尚Lolu礼服红色(£180)PS:你如何看待当前的媒体覆盖黑色的创始人?记者和媒体公司能做些什么来改善它吗?OB:它最初是苦乐参半的,因为我非常喜欢和受它的启发,它也是一个痛苦的回忆多少我们多年来一直持观望态度。然而,我选择专注于积极,希望媒体不断强调各种各样的神奇的黑人品牌无论是在公共空间和幕后的真正重要。PS:世界真正实践“多样性、公正和包容”看起来像吗?OB:一个真正的世界实践多样性,股本和包容不仅接受,而且所有人庆祝的差异。访问和进步也同样提供给所有没有任何特定群体特权高于另一个,有一个真正的归属感在社会的方方面面。](https://media1.popsugar-assets.com/files/thumbor/eE12YbP-mPXoJi4VQZaz_Uvk_KA/fit-in/1024x1024/filters:format_auto-!!-:strip_icc-!!-/2023/02/24/891/n/1922564/7bedb0d0cec894cb_yaura/i/Yaura-Fashion-Lolu-Gown-in-Red-180PS-How-do-you-feel-about.webp)
雷内·麦克唐纳,创始人兼创意总监,Lisou
![Rene Macdonald, Founder & Creative Director, Lisou 雷内·麦克唐纳,创始人兼创意总监,Lisou](https://media1.popsugar-assets.com/files/thumbor/w3-gDtU56M564MkHvwdzhkiAIAM/fit-in/1024x1024/filters:format_auto-!!-:strip_icc-!!-/2022/07/01/816/n/1922564/ae298fba0317b2d5_Rene_Macdonald_1/i/Rene-Macdonald-Founder-Creative-Director-Lisou.jpg)
![Lisou Betty Mango Cherry Print Silk Twill Shirt ($310)
PS: How do you feel about the current coverage of Black founders in the media? What can journalists and media companies do to improve it?
RM: There's a long way to go, and I don't think any of us will be satisfied until we are fully represented in every sector. So, in a nutshell, there is currently not enough support of Black founders in the media. Black youth deserve to see more inspirational figures who look just like them. Otherwise, how are they to have hope and think Lisou贝蒂芒果樱桃打印斜纹衬衫(310美元)PS:你如何看待当前的媒体覆盖黑色的创始人?记者和媒体公司能做些什么来改善它吗?RM:还有很长的路要走,我不认为我们将满足,除非我们完全代表在每一个部门。所以,简而言之,目前没有足够的支持在媒体上黑色的创始人。黑人青年应该看到更多的鼓舞人心的人物看起来就像他们一样。否则,他们是如何希望,认为“可以吗?”If you can't see it, you can't be it. You have to grow up knowing that anything and everything is possible and there are definitely sectors of industry that are not inclusive in terms of recruitment. For journalists and media companies, it's simple. Show us more examples of excellence within our ethnic group. News about Black people should be focused on more positive issues rather than the current negativity that exists. It's this negativity that continues many myths about Black people and allows us to be misjudged and written off. In that spirit, I have to add a thank you to PopSugar for approaching me in the first place. It's a start. PS: What does a world that truly practices](https://media1.popsugar-assets.com/files/thumbor/7H7daHveor3L5bTP_ZapwrdO7XY/fit-in/1024x1024/filters:format_auto-!!-:strip_icc-!!-/2023/02/24/894/n/1922564/cc9f4b4b8ecd0bc8_18_9b948298-8034-471c-a3e6-9b80a82539c0_1800x1800/i/Lisou-Betty-Mango-Cherry-Print-Silk-Twill-Shirt-310PS-How-do-you.webp)